Difference between revisions of "Guide to Stripping Bikes and Sorting Parts"

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== Introduction ==
 
== Introduction ==
  
−
Often at the Bike Kitchen we strip down bikes that are severely broken or unlikely to be reused.  The components that we strip go into the digging stream so people can use them to build up other bikes.  Also, when you're completely overhauling your own bike, you start by stripping it down, but it's the former case we're most concerned with here.  Why do we need a guide to this?  Well, we often have untrained volunteers strip bikes, and this has resulted in some problems.  Often, usable components don't get stripped and end up in metal recycling or trash.  Also, components that are not reusable often make it into digging stream when they should be in the metal recycling or trash.  And then there's my biggest pet peeve, which will require its own paragraph.
+
Often at the Bike Kitchen we strip down bikes that are severely broken or unlikely to be reused.  The components that we strip go into the digging stream so people can use them to build up other bikes.  Also, when you're completely overhauling your own bike, you start by stripping it down, but it's the former case we're most concerned with here.   
  
−
Bikes are made of components.  Components are made of parts. A component that is missing some parts is not useful until you dig up the missing parts.  In order for the component to work, the parts must be compatible.  In some cases, achieving compatibility is not a big deal.  For example, many many brakes use the same cable anchors, and those cable anchors can be readily found in the shop.  When compatible parts are not readily available, or when it's not obvious which parts are compatible, you're stuck substituting and experimenting.  I've seen some pretty extraordinary successful substitutions, and I've seen some pretty big disasters.  In fact, a whole book could be written on this topic.  But here we minimize the need for substitution and experimenting by ensuring that the components we strip off of bikes are complete.  This results in bikes that work better.
+
It is also worth noting that to strip or not strip a bike has its own issues :
 +
 
 +
* usable components don't get stripped and end up in metal recycling
 +
* components that are not reusable often make it into digging stream
 +
* components are often stripped or made incomplete, also making them unusable.
 +
 
 +
=== Why Do we have this guide ? ===
 +
 
 +
Well, we often have untrained volunteers strip bikes, and this has resulted in some problems. So this guide is a step-by-step guide to stripping a bike for the uninitiated.  You'll need some bike vocabulary and anatomy to get it.  To some extent the steps can be re-ordered.   
 +
 
 +
Also, depending on the state and condition of the bike you're stripping, you may end up skipping some steps.  So put the bike up in the stand and let's get moving.  Perhaps one day we'll add photos to make it more interesting and useful.
 +
 
 +
= When do you strip a bike ? =
 +
 
 +
The easy answer is 'when it makes sense'. There is no good hard or fast rule about stripping a bike, but you could apply the following rules
 +
* Can the bike be built from 'as is', and thus '''should not be stripped'''
 +
* Does the bike need to be stripped anyway just to get it working
 +
* Does the bike have unique parts that should stay together and with the frame
 +
* will the bike get used as is, or do we just want the parts
 +
* Is the frame junk
 +
 
 +
'''If you are unsure whether something is complete, ask!'''
  
−
This guide is a step-by-step guide to stripping a bike for the uninitiated.  You'll need some bike vocabulary and anatomy to get it.  To some extent the steps can be re-ordered.  Also, depending on the state and condition of the bike you're stripping, you may end up skipping some steps.  So put the bike up in the stand and let's get moving.  Perhaps one day we'll add photos to make it more interesting and useful.
+
= The process =
  
 
== Accessories ==
 
== Accessories ==
  
−
Occasionally bikes have old lock mounts, computer mounts, water bottle cages, racks, seat bags, light mounts, mirrors, and other accessories that may or may not be reusable.  Get these out of the way.  If the accessories are complete (light mounts ''with'' lights; computer mounts ''with'' the computer, the sensor, and the magnet; etc.), bundle them up and file them with similar ''complete'' accessories.  If they are missing parts, throw them away or recycle them. If you are unsure whether something is complete, ask!
+
These are things like :
 +
 
 +
* old lock mounts
 +
* computer mounts
 +
* water bottle cages
 +
* racks
 +
* seat bags
 +
* light mounts
 +
* mirrors
 +
* and other accessories that may or may not be reusable.   
 +
 
 +
Get these out of the way.   
 +
 
 +
'''Sorting'''
 +
* If the accessories are complete (light mounts ''with'' lights; computer mounts ''with'' the computer, the sensor, and the magnet; etc.), bundle them up and file them with similar ''complete'' accessories.   
 +
 
 +
'''Disposal'''
 +
* If they are missing parts, throw them away or recycle them.
  
 
== Cables and Housing ==
 
== Cables and Housing ==
  
−
Getting the cables and housing out of the way makes the rest of the stripping job simpler and cleaner.  For each cable, trim off the any aluminum cable crimps using the cable cutters. Loosen (but don't completely remove!) the anchor bolt that holds the cable to the derailleur or brake. Pull the cable through the anchor bolt and trim off any nasty frayed or crimped end using the cable cutters.  Now you can slide the cable through the housing and remove it.  Finally, the housing should come out of the frame easily.
+
Getting the cables and housing out of the way makes the rest of the stripping job simpler and cleaner.   
 +
 
 +
'''Removal'''
 +
* trim off the any aluminum cable crimps using the cable cutters.
 +
* Loosen the anchor bolt that holds the cable to the derailleur or brake.
 +
** '''do not completely remove the anchor bolt!'''
 +
* Pull the cable through the anchor bolt
 +
** trim off any nasty frayed or crimped end using the cable cutters.   
 +
* slide the cable through the housing and remove it.  Finally,  
 +
* the housing should come out of the frame easily.
 +
 
 +
'''Sorting'''
 +
* if the cables are in '''really good''' condition, you can usually save longer cables like the rear brake and derailleur cables, and long pieces of housing.
 +
** coil up the cable tightly so it won't unwind into a big mess. 
  
−
Cables and housing are usually not good re-use candidates.  However, if they are in good condition, you can usually save longer cables like the rear brake and derailleur cables, and long pieces of housing.  If you intend on saving cables or housing for re-use, be sure to trim the destroyed ends with cable cutters.  Also, coil up the cable tightly so it won't unwind into a big mess.  Waste cables can go in the metal recycling, but waste housing goes in the trash.
+
'''Disposal'''
 +
* Waste cables can go in the metal recycling
 +
* waste housing goes in the trash.
  
 
== Wheels ==
 
== Wheels ==
  
−
Take off each wheel, ensuring that the skewer or nuts that hold it remain in place.  Inspect the tires.  Are they really worn out? Are the side walls failing? Are there any big cuts or tears? If so, take them off and throw them away.  Are they in reasonable condition, but either very common or a size that doesn't get reused much (e.g., knobby 26" MTB tires, 24")? Consider throwing them away or putting them in the free box.  We only have so much space.  Finally, if they are in good shape and popular reuse candidates (e.g., 27", slick 26"), store them with the tires.
+
'''Take off each wheel'''
 +
* Ensure that the skewer or nuts that hold it remain in place
 +
 
 +
'''Inspect the tires'''
 +
*Are they really worn out?
 +
*Are the side walls failing?
 +
*Are there any big cuts or tears?
 +
*Are they in reasonable condition, but either very common or a size that doesn't get reused much (e.g., knobby 26" MTB tires, 24")?
 +
 
 +
If so, take them off and throw them away.
  
−
Are the inner tubes good?  Get as much air out as possible, wrap up the tube, and put it in the appropriate good bin.  Is the tube flat?  If there's only one or two holes, or if you suppose that there are only one or two holes, put the tire in the ? bin so it can be checked and patched. Finally, if the valve is torn, or if the tube has a big tear or blow out, throw it away.
+
If they are in good shape and popular reuse candidates (e.g., 27", slick 26"), store them with the tires.
  
−
Inspect the freewheel or cassette.  Is it ''obviously'' worn out or broken?  Take it off and recycle it.  Otherwise, remove it and put it with its cousins.  When you take off the cassette '''be sure that all of the spacers, all of the cogs, and the lock ring are zip-tied together'''.  We always end up with piles of cassettes missing their smaller cogs, and digging up the right cogs can be complicated.  Ask for help with this step if you aren't sure how to evaluate these things.
+
'''Inspect the inner tubes'''
 +
* If the valve is torn, or if the tube has a big tear or blow out
 +
** throw it away.
 +
* If the tube is flat? If there's only one or two holes
 +
** put the tube in the 'tibes with holes so it can be checked and patched
 +
* if the tube is good
 +
** get as much air out as possible, wrap up the tube, and put it in the appropriate good bin.   
  
−
On to the hubs! Are the axles broken? Are any lock nuts missing? Is the hub really loose or does it appear very worn out? Is it grindy? Is the axle missing entirely?  If any of these are true, the hub may need some major work before it can be reused.  This work may be worth it if there's a prayer of finding the parts ''and'' if the wheel is otherwise in good shape (see next paragraph).  Ask if you need help evaluating this.  However, if the hub is in decent shape, move on to consider the rest of the wheel.
+
'''Inspect the freewheel or cassette.'''
 +
 
 +
* remove the Cassette or freewheel
 +
** '''be sure that all of the spacers, all of the cogs, and the lock ring are zip-tied together'''
 +
* Is it ''obviously'' worn out or broken?
 +
 
 +
** If it is, Take it off and recycle it.
 +
 
 +
** Otherwise, Remove it and put it with its cousins.  
 +
 
 +
'''Inspect the Hubs'''
 +
 
 +
* Are the axles broken?  
 +
* Are any lock nuts missing?
 +
* Is the hub really loose or does it appear very worn out?
 +
* Is it grindy?
 +
* Is the axle missing entirely?   
 +
 
 +
If any of these are true, the hub may need some major work before it can be reused.  This work may be worth it if there's a prayer of finding the parts ''and'' if the wheel is otherwise in good shape (see next paragraph).  Ask if you need help evaluating this.  However, if the hub is in decent shape, move on to consider the rest of the wheel.
  
 
Now inspect the wheels.  Are they relatively straight?  Are all of the spokes present?  Are the nipples in good shape (i.e., not stripped or excessively corroded)?  If you've made it this far, the wheel is probably good.  Put it with wheels of the same size.  Sometimes the wheel is pretty bent or missing a spoke or two.  Determining how fixable a bent up wheel is can sometimes be difficult to predict.  If you have any doubts, ask.  If the wheel is completely bent, corroded, or otherwise broken, throw it in the recycle bin.  
 
Now inspect the wheels.  Are they relatively straight?  Are all of the spokes present?  Are the nipples in good shape (i.e., not stripped or excessively corroded)?  If you've made it this far, the wheel is probably good.  Put it with wheels of the same size.  Sometimes the wheel is pretty bent or missing a spoke or two.  Determining how fixable a bent up wheel is can sometimes be difficult to predict.  If you have any doubts, ask.  If the wheel is completely bent, corroded, or otherwise broken, throw it in the recycle bin.  
Line 57: Line 143:
  
 
== Frame and Fork ==
 
== Frame and Fork ==
 +
 +
== Further Information ==
 +
 +
=== A Note on Parts and components ===
 +
 +
Bikes are made of components.  Components are made of parts.  A component that is missing some parts is not useful until you dig up the missing parts.  In order for the component to work, the parts must be compatible.  In some cases, achieving compatibility is not a big deal.  For example, many many brakes use the same cable anchors, and those cable anchors can be readily found in the shop.  When compatible parts are not readily available, or when it's not obvious which parts are compatible, you're stuck substituting and experimenting.  I've seen some pretty extraordinary successful substitutions, and I've seen some pretty big disasters.  In fact, a whole book could be written on this topic.  But here we minimize the need for substitution and experimenting by ensuring that the components we strip off of bikes are complete.  This results in bikes that work better.

Revision as of 20:25, 14 December 2009

Introduction

Often at the Bike Kitchen we strip down bikes that are severely broken or unlikely to be reused. The components that we strip go into the digging stream so people can use them to build up other bikes. Also, when you're completely overhauling your own bike, you start by stripping it down, but it's the former case we're most concerned with here.

It is also worth noting that to strip or not strip a bike has its own issues :

  • usable components don't get stripped and end up in metal recycling
  • components that are not reusable often make it into digging stream
  • components are often stripped or made incomplete, also making them unusable.

Why Do we have this guide ?

Well, we often have untrained volunteers strip bikes, and this has resulted in some problems. So this guide is a step-by-step guide to stripping a bike for the uninitiated. You'll need some bike vocabulary and anatomy to get it. To some extent the steps can be re-ordered.

Also, depending on the state and condition of the bike you're stripping, you may end up skipping some steps. So put the bike up in the stand and let's get moving. Perhaps one day we'll add photos to make it more interesting and useful.

When do you strip a bike ?

The easy answer is 'when it makes sense'. There is no good hard or fast rule about stripping a bike, but you could apply the following rules

  • Can the bike be built from 'as is', and thus should not be stripped
  • Does the bike need to be stripped anyway just to get it working
  • Does the bike have unique parts that should stay together and with the frame
  • will the bike get used as is, or do we just want the parts
  • Is the frame junk

If you are unsure whether something is complete, ask!

The process

Accessories

These are things like :

  • old lock mounts
  • computer mounts
  • water bottle cages
  • racks
  • seat bags
  • light mounts
  • mirrors
  • and other accessories that may or may not be reusable.

Get these out of the way.

Sorting

  • If the accessories are complete (light mounts with lights; computer mounts with the computer, the sensor, and the magnet; etc.), bundle them up and file them with similar complete accessories.

Disposal

  • If they are missing parts, throw them away or recycle them.

Cables and Housing

Getting the cables and housing out of the way makes the rest of the stripping job simpler and cleaner.

Removal

  • trim off the any aluminum cable crimps using the cable cutters.
  • Loosen the anchor bolt that holds the cable to the derailleur or brake.
    • do not completely remove the anchor bolt!
  • Pull the cable through the anchor bolt
    • trim off any nasty frayed or crimped end using the cable cutters.
  • slide the cable through the housing and remove it. Finally,
  • the housing should come out of the frame easily.

Sorting

  • if the cables are in really good condition, you can usually save longer cables like the rear brake and derailleur cables, and long pieces of housing.
    • coil up the cable tightly so it won't unwind into a big mess.

Disposal

  • Waste cables can go in the metal recycling
  • waste housing goes in the trash.

Wheels

Take off each wheel

  • Ensure that the skewer or nuts that hold it remain in place

Inspect the tires

  • Are they really worn out?
  • Are the side walls failing?
  • Are there any big cuts or tears?
  • Are they in reasonable condition, but either very common or a size that doesn't get reused much (e.g., knobby 26" MTB tires, 24")?

If so, take them off and throw them away.

If they are in good shape and popular reuse candidates (e.g., 27", slick 26"), store them with the tires.

Inspect the inner tubes

  • If the valve is torn, or if the tube has a big tear or blow out
    • throw it away.
  • If the tube is flat? If there's only one or two holes
    • put the tube in the 'tibes with holes so it can be checked and patched
  • if the tube is good
    • get as much air out as possible, wrap up the tube, and put it in the appropriate good bin.

Inspect the freewheel or cassette.

  • remove the Cassette or freewheel
    • be sure that all of the spacers, all of the cogs, and the lock ring are zip-tied together
  • Is it obviously worn out or broken?
    • If it is, Take it off and recycle it.
    • Otherwise, Remove it and put it with its cousins.

Inspect the Hubs

  • Are the axles broken?
  • Are any lock nuts missing?
  • Is the hub really loose or does it appear very worn out?
  • Is it grindy?
  • Is the axle missing entirely?

If any of these are true, the hub may need some major work before it can be reused. This work may be worth it if there's a prayer of finding the parts and if the wheel is otherwise in good shape (see next paragraph). Ask if you need help evaluating this. However, if the hub is in decent shape, move on to consider the rest of the wheel.

Now inspect the wheels. Are they relatively straight? Are all of the spokes present? Are the nipples in good shape (i.e., not stripped or excessively corroded)? If you've made it this far, the wheel is probably good. Put it with wheels of the same size. Sometimes the wheel is pretty bent or missing a spoke or two. Determining how fixable a bent up wheel is can sometimes be difficult to predict. If you have any doubts, ask. If the wheel is completely bent, corroded, or otherwise broken, throw it in the recycle bin.

If the wheels are in really good shape, match, and have matching tires, you may consider zip tying them together and putting them on the rack for reuse. This is a pretty rare case.

Chain

Remove the chain with a chain tool. If you don't know how to use one, ask for help. Please avoid bending or breaking the chain pin on the tool. After you have the chain off, grab a chain gauge or a ruler and measure the it. Is it worn out or super rusty? Put it in the metal recycling. Is it in okay shape? Put it in the chain bucket in the digging room.

Derailleurs

With the cables, housing, and chain removed, the derailleurs should come right off. Ensure that the cable anchor bolts and all mounting hardware are tightly fastened to the derailleur so they don't get lost as the derailleur tumbles around in the storage bin with its cousins.

Brakes

Side Pull Brakes

Center Pull Brakes

Cantilever Brakes

V-Brakes

Handle Bars and Stem

Pedals

Crank Set

Headset

Bottom Bracket

Frame and Fork

Further Information

A Note on Parts and components

Bikes are made of components. Components are made of parts. A component that is missing some parts is not useful until you dig up the missing parts. In order for the component to work, the parts must be compatible. In some cases, achieving compatibility is not a big deal. For example, many many brakes use the same cable anchors, and those cable anchors can be readily found in the shop. When compatible parts are not readily available, or when it's not obvious which parts are compatible, you're stuck substituting and experimenting. I've seen some pretty extraordinary successful substitutions, and I've seen some pretty big disasters. In fact, a whole book could be written on this topic. But here we minimize the need for substitution and experimenting by ensuring that the components we strip off of bikes are complete. This results in bikes that work better.

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