Difference between revisions of "Guide to Stripping Bikes and Sorting Parts"
Bcavagnolo (talk | contribs) (New page: == Introduction == Often at the Bike Kitchen we strip down bikes that are severely broken or unlikely to be reused. The components that we strip go into the digging stream so people can ...) |
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== Derailleurs == | == Derailleurs == | ||
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| + | With the cables, housing, and chain removed, the derailleurs should come right off. Ensure that the cable anchor bolts and all mounting hardware are tightly fastened to the derailleur so they don't get lost as the derailleur tumbles around in the storage bin with its cousins. | ||
== Brakes == | == Brakes == | ||
Revision as of 10:13, 19 April 2009
Contents
Introduction
Often at the Bike Kitchen we strip down bikes that are severely broken or unlikely to be reused. The components that we strip go into the digging stream so people can use them to build up other bikes. Also, when you're completely overhauling your own bike, you start by stripping it down, but it's the former case we're most concerned with here. Why do we need a guide to this? Well, we often have untrained volunteers strip bikes, and this has resulted in some problems. Often, usable components don't get stripped and end up in metal recycling or trash. Also, components that are not reusable often make it into digging stream when they should be in the metal recycling or trash. And then there's my biggest pet peeve, which will require its own paragraph.
Bikes are made of components. Components are made of parts. A component that is missing some parts is not useful until you dig up the missing parts. In order for the component to work, the parts must be compatible. In some cases, achieving compatibility is not a big deal. For example, many many brakes use the same cable anchors, and those cable anchors can be readily found in the shop. When compatible parts are not readily available, or when it's not obvious which parts are compatible, you're stuck substituting and experimenting. I've seen some pretty extraordinary successful substitutions, and I've seen some pretty big disasters. In fact, a whole book could be written on this topic. But here we minimize the need for substitution and experimenting by ensuring that the components we strip off of bikes are complete. This results in bikes that work better.
This guide is a step-by-step guide to stripping a bike for the uninitiated. You'll need some bike vocabulary and anatomy to get it. To some extent the steps can be re-ordered. Also, depending on the state and condition of the bike you're stripping, you may end up skipping some steps. So put the bike up in the stand and let's get moving. Perhaps one day we'll add photos to make it more interesting and useful.
Accessories
Occasionally bikes have old lock mounts, computer mounts, water bottle cages, racks, seat bags, light mounts, mirrors, and other accessories that may or may not be reusable. Get these out of the way. If the accessories are complete (light mounts with lights; computer mounts with the computer, the sensor, and the magnet; etc.), bundle them up and file them with similar complete accessories. If they are missing parts, throw them away or recycle them. If you are unsure whether something is complete, ask!
Cables and Housing
Getting the cables and housing out of the way makes the rest of the stripping job simpler and cleaner. For each cable, trim off the any aluminum cable crimps using the cable cutters. Loosen (but don't completely remove!) the anchor bolt that holds the cable to the derailleur or brake. Pull the cable through the anchor bolt and trim off any nasty frayed or crimped end using the cable cutters. Now you can slide the cable through the housing and remove it. Finally, the housing should come out of the frame easily.
Cables and housing are usually not good re-use candidates. However, if they are in good condition, you can usually save longer cables like the rear brake and derailleur cables, and long pieces of housing. If you intend on saving cables or housing for re-use, be sure to trim the destroyed ends with cable cutters. Also, coil up the cable tightly so it won't unwind into a big mess. Waste cables can go in the metal recycling, but waste housing goes in the trash.
Wheels
Take off each wheel, ensuring that the skewer or nuts that hold it remain in place. Inspect the tires. Are they really worn out? Are the side walls failing? Are there any big cuts or tears? If so, take them off and throw them away. Are they in reasonable condition, but either very common or a size that doesn't get reused much (e.g., knobby 26" MTB tires, 24")? Consider throwing them away or putting them in the free box. We only have so much space. Finally, if they are in good shape and popular reuse candidates (e.g., 27", slick 26"), store them with the tires.
Are the inner tubes good? Get as much air out as possible, wrap up the tube, and put it in the appropriate good bin. Is the tube flat? If there's only one or two holes, or if you suppose that there are only one or two holes, put the tire in the ? bin so it can be checked and patched. Finally, if the valve is torn, or if the tube has a big tear or blow out, throw it away.
Inspect the freewheel or cassette. Is it obviously worn out or broken? Take it off and recycle it. Otherwise, remove it and put it with its cousins. When you take off the cassette be sure that all of the spacers, all of the cogs, and the lock ring are zip-tied together. We always end up with piles of cassettes missing their smaller cogs, and digging up the right cogs can be complicated. Ask for help with this step if you aren't sure how to evaluate these things.
On to the hubs! Are the axles broken? Are any lock nuts missing? Is the hub really loose or does it appear very worn out? Is it grindy? Is the axle missing entirely? If any of these are true, the hub may need some major work before it can be reused. This work may be worth it if there's a prayer of finding the parts and if the wheel is otherwise in good shape (see next paragraph). Ask if you need help evaluating this. However, if the hub is in decent shape, move on to consider the rest of the wheel.
Now inspect the wheels. Are they relatively straight? Are all of the spokes present? Are the nipples in good shape (i.e., not stripped or excessively corroded)? If you've made it this far, the wheel is probably good. Put it with wheels of the same size. Sometimes the wheel is pretty bent or missing a spoke or two. Determining how fixable a bent up wheel is can sometimes be difficult to predict. If you have any doubts, ask. If the wheel is completely bent, corroded, or otherwise broken, throw it in the recycle bin.
If the wheels are in really good shape, match, and have matching tires, you may consider zip tying them together and putting them on the rack for reuse. This is a pretty rare case.
Chain
Remove the chain with a chain tool. If you don't know how to use one, ask for help. Please avoid bending or breaking the chain pin on the tool. After you have the chain off, grab a chain gauge or a ruler and measure the it. Is it worn out or super rusty? Put it in the metal recycling. Is it in okay shape? Put it in the chain bucket in the digging room.
Derailleurs
With the cables, housing, and chain removed, the derailleurs should come right off. Ensure that the cable anchor bolts and all mounting hardware are tightly fastened to the derailleur so they don't get lost as the derailleur tumbles around in the storage bin with its cousins.
