Difference between revisions of "External Maintenance"

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The Bike Kitchen periodically offers a tune-up class, covering the following topics, among others:
 
  
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* Cleaning a bicycle
 
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* Replacing cables and cable housing
 
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* Adjusting deraillers and brakes
 
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* Wrapping handlebar tape
 
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* Disassembling, lubing and adjusting bearing surfaces (headset, hubs, bottom bracket)
 
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* Truing wheels
 
  
 
==Class Planning==
 
==Class Planning==
  
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Generally, the class is conducted over four sessions of 3 hours each, or 5 sessions of 2 1/2 hours each. Class enrollment is limited to around 8 students, due to limited numbers of stands and [toolkits>Main.Toolkits]. It's up to one person to take the initiative to organize the class, but two instructors per night are recommended to handle the demonstration and students' questions.  We've had problems in the past with flaky instructors, so if you plan on teaching a class, set the dates and times and commit to following through to the end of the class.  Also, it's good to commit to being available to your students during some of the regular open hours while the class is in session.
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Class enrollment is managed using Brown Paper Tickets.
  
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Enrollment is generally handled through email, on a first-come first-serve basis. Start contacting people on a waitlist, provided by the last instructor, and bike kitchen patrons. If the waitlist fails to fill the class, a small posting on the [SFBC>http://sfbike.org] mailing list should generate more than enough interest. Try the following format:
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TODO: provide more information on managing the enrollment process.
  
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<pre>
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==Curriculum==
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HOMEMADE TUNE-UPS AT THE BIKE KITCHEN
 
  
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<DAY>, <DATE RANGE>, <TIME>; Bike Kitchen, 18th & Alabama
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=Day 1 : Flat Repair=
  
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This hands-on class will teach everything you need to know about keeping your bike in
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Bicycle Anatomy
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working order under normal wear and tear, including brake adjustment, wheel truing, hub
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- Frame tubes
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adjustment, drive-train and frame cleaning, and more. The class includes 5 sessions on
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- Components
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<DAY OF WEEK> evenings starting <START DATE>. No experience is necessary, but you need a
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- Brief quiz
−
bike to work on that needs a tune-up. Registration is a suggested $80, plus parts as
 
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necessary. Class enrollment is limited to 8 students so that everyone has tools and a
 
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stand, so respond soon! For registration or questions, email the instructor,
 
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<INSTRUCTOR>, at <EMAIL>.
 
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</pre>
 
  
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After receiving inquiries, followup with an email for each student. Ask them what type of bike they have and what condition it's in. Inform them that they need to arrive promptly, and that tuition is due in cash on the first day. Answer any questions they have, and let them know that their spot in the class is reserved pending their commitment to attend every class.
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Basic Chain Maintenance
  
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==Schedule Overview==
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Types of Lubricants
 +
- Dry vs. Wet; describe, compare
 +
- Different types of dry: teflon, parafin, silicon, plastic
 +
- Wet on dry ok; dry on wet not ok
  
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This is intended only as a suggestion, for a 5-week class with 2 1/2 hour sessions. Each class should consist of demonstrations of tune-up procedures, followed by the students working on their own bikes, with the instructors circulating to provide help. Either demonstrate the procedures all at once and then let them loose, or break up the demos to keep the students more engaged, at the risk of having to deal with cans of worms.
+
Lubricating vs. Cleaning
 +
- How often, how do you know when
 +
- Basic lubrication; keep it slightly glistening
 +
- Light cleaning; rinse the dirt out w/ lube
 +
- Remove, soak and scrub
 +
- Remove all solvent before lubricating
  
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===Day 1 - Introduction, Cleaning===
+
Flat Repair
  
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Tools and parts needed:
+
Tire/Rim Anatomy
 +
- Bead; materials
 +
- Rim hook
 +
- Engagement
  
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* Clean rags
+
Types of Valves
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* Cleaning solution (Simple Green or citrus degreaser)
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- Identification
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* Chain breaker and chain cleaning bin OR
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- Operation
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* Chain cleaning tool
+
- Rim compatibility; adapter gasket
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* Replacement chain links, or master links
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- Pump compatibility
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* Freewheel and cassette removal tools (splines) and chain whip
 
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* Drivetrain brushes
 
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* Chain lube, or other thin oil
 
  
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Plan:
+
Removing Wheel
 +
- Open brake
 +
- Proper gear; reasons
  
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* Take tuition (sliding scale from $40-80) and fill out membership forms
+
Removing Tire
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* Consider distributing some course materials.  See the attached files at the end of this page for some primitive ideas.  Feel free to upload more files too.
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- Use of levers
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* Make introductions -- each person should give their name and briefly describe their bike and how they use it, as well as any experience they have in bike repair
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- User of hands
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* Remove the wheels and set them aside
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- Stubborn tire tricks
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* Clean the bicycle frame and non-drivetrain parts using a rag and cleaning solution, showing flossing techniques
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- Avoid puncture
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* Remove chain with chainbreaker and soak in bin, or use chain cleaning tool
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- Don't user metal levers
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* Remove gear cluster and scrub all gears
+
 
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* Oil freewheel mechanism, deraillers, and chain
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Finding the Leak
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* Reassemble bike
+
- Types of flats
 +
- Relative orientation of tire/tube
 +
- Finding leak; circle it
 +
- Checking tire
 +
 
 +
Patching
 +
- Types of patches ; glue-on, self-adhesive
 +
- Vulcanization reaction
 +
- Prepping tube, applying glue
 +
- Applying patch
 +
 
 +
Re-assembly
 +
- Installing tire
 +
- Inflation steps; proper seating
 +
- Installing wheel on bike
 +
 
 +
Day 2 : Gears
 +
 
 +
Chain Replacement
 +
 
 +
Chain Wear
 +
- Indicator tool
 +
- Stretch
 +
- Cog wear, chain rings
 +
- Behavior/interaction of worn parts; skipping, stiff link
 +
 
 +
Chain Anatomy
 +
- Plates; inner, outer
 +
- Pin; flanged ends
 +
- "Link"; actually 2 segments
 +
- Sizes; road, 10spd, BMX/Track
 +
 
 +
Chain Breaker
 +
- Basic Principle; small vice
 +
- Different sizes; road/10spd, BMX/Track
 +
- Difference between upper and lower slots; upper spreads chain, lower compresses chain
 +
- Don't push the pin out!
 +
- Breaking - one step; joining - 2 steps
 +
- How to tell when it's correct
 +
 
 +
Gears
 +
 
 +
Cable Principles
 +
- Tension/Compression
 +
- Barrel Adjusters; 'loosening' the adjuster means 'tightening' the cable; start in the middle
 +
 
 +
Shifting Principles
 +
- Friction vs. Index
 +
  - Backlash and Overshift
 +
- Indixing is in the shifter, not the deraileur
 +
- Standards, manufacturers and inter-compatibility; GripShift
 +
 
 +
Deraileur Anatomy
 +
- Parallelogram, cage, pulleys
 +
- Wrap Adjust Screw; keeps jockey pulley from hitting large cog
 +
- Limit Screws; demonstrate functionality
 +
- Compare to front; position on seat tube
 +
 
 +
Exercise
 +
- Shift out of smallest chain ring
 +
- Disconnect cable, put all screws/barrel adjusters out of position
 +
- Adjust screws first; just a bit wider than perfect to allow for overshift
 +
- Connect cable and adjust tension
 +
- Adjust for other chain rings
 +
 
 +
Shifting Technique (time permitting)
 +
- Cross gearing
 +
- Reduce load; timing w/in pedal stroke
 +
- Shift when decelerating
 +
- Shift before hills
 +
 
 +
 
 +
Day 3 : Brakes
 +
 
 +
Cables/Housing Types
 +
- Cable sizes, ends
 +
- Housing sizes
 +
- Housing construction, brake vs. deraileur
 +
- Housing failure modes; why shifter is unsafe for brakes
 +
  - Determining correct length; short but not too short, compare to old housing
 +
 
 +
Brakes
 +
 
 +
Anatomy
 +
- Road: center-pull, single-pivot, dual-pivot
 +
- Mountain: cantilever, straddle cable; linear-pull (v-brake), noodle
 +
- Release mechanism
 +
- Center adjust screw(s)
 +
- Cartridge pads
 +
- Disc
 +
 
 +
Pad Alignment
 +
- Vertical; don't touch tire, or hang off the bottom of the rim
 +
- Rotation; toe shouldn't point up or down
 +
- Flat; surface should be parallel to rim face upon contact
 +
- Toe-in; noise
 +
 
 +
Pad Maintenance
 +
- Identify old dried out pads
 +
- Filing off lip
 +
- Metal deposits
 +
- Re-surfacing; put the file on the table
 +
 
 +
Exercise
 +
- Disconnect cable, remove pads, put barrel adjusters in middle
 +
- Replace or file pads if necessary
 +
- Re-install pads and position
 +
- Re-connect cable and adjust tension
 +
 
 +
Braking Technique
 +
- Use both
 +
- Front does most of the stopping
 +
- Shift weight back for hard braking/hills
 +
- If rear wheel locks under hard braking, ease up on front rather than rear - puts more weight on rear
 +
 
 +
Wheel Truing
 +
 
 +
Anatomy
 +
- Spokes; diameter, butting
 +
- Nipples
 +
 
 +
Tools
 +
- Stand; 3 knobs
 +
- Dish tool
 +
- Spoke wrenches; sizes
 +
 
 +
Types of Adjustment
 +
- True
 +
- Dish
 +
- Round
 +
 
 +
Basic Principle
 +
- Which way to turn nipples
 +
- Triangle geometry
 +
- Even numbers of spokes
 +
- Turn 90d at a time; be aware of spoke twist
 +
 
 +
Technique
 +
- Pick a high spot to work on
 +
- Decide where it starts and ends
 +
- Hold on to first spoke and count the rest
 +
- Make adjustments
 +
- Continue around rest of wheel before returning to the same spot
  
 
==Rule #1: Avoid Cans of Worms==
 
==Rule #1: Avoid Cans of Worms==

Revision as of 18:57, 24 August 2009


Class Planning

Class enrollment is managed using Brown Paper Tickets.

TODO: provide more information on managing the enrollment process.

Curriculum

Day 1 : Flat Repair

Bicycle Anatomy 

- Frame tubes
- Components
- Brief quiz

Basic Chain Maintenance

Types of Lubricants 

- Dry vs. Wet; describe, compare
- Different types of dry: teflon, parafin, silicon, plastic
- Wet on dry ok; dry on wet not ok

Lubricating vs. Cleaning 

- How often, how do you know when
- Basic lubrication; keep it slightly glistening
- Light cleaning; rinse the dirt out w/ lube
- Remove, soak and scrub
- Remove all solvent before lubricating

Flat Repair

Tire/Rim Anatomy 

- Bead; materials
- Rim hook
- Engagement

Types of Valves 

- Identification
- Operation
- Rim compatibility; adapter gasket
- Pump compatibility

Removing Wheel 

- Open brake
- Proper gear; reasons

Removing Tire 

- Use of levers
- User of hands
- Stubborn tire tricks
- Avoid puncture
- Don't user metal levers

Finding the Leak 

- Types of flats
- Relative orientation of tire/tube
- Finding leak; circle it
- Checking tire

Patching 

- Types of patches ; glue-on, self-adhesive
- Vulcanization reaction
- Prepping tube, applying glue
- Applying patch

Re-assembly 

- Installing tire
- Inflation steps; proper seating
- Installing wheel on bike

Day 2 : Gears

Chain Replacement

Chain Wear 

- Indicator tool
- Stretch
- Cog wear, chain rings
- Behavior/interaction of worn parts; skipping, stiff link

Chain Anatomy 

- Plates; inner, outer
- Pin; flanged ends
- "Link"; actually 2 segments
- Sizes; road, 10spd, BMX/Track

Chain Breaker 

- Basic Principle; small vice
- Different sizes; road/10spd, BMX/Track
- Difference between upper and lower slots; upper spreads chain, lower compresses chain
- Don't push the pin out!
- Breaking - one step; joining - 2 steps
- How to tell when it's correct

Gears

Cable Principles 

- Tension/Compression
- Barrel Adjusters; 'loosening' the adjuster means 'tightening' the cable; start in the middle

Shifting Principles 

- Friction vs. Index
- Backlash and Overshift
- Indixing is in the shifter, not the deraileur
- Standards, manufacturers and inter-compatibility; GripShift

Deraileur Anatomy 

- Parallelogram, cage, pulleys
- Wrap Adjust Screw; keeps jockey pulley from hitting large cog
- Limit Screws; demonstrate functionality
- Compare to front; position on seat tube

Exercise 

- Shift out of smallest chain ring
- Disconnect cable, put all screws/barrel adjusters out of position
- Adjust screws first; just a bit wider than perfect to allow for overshift
- Connect cable and adjust tension
- Adjust for other chain rings

Shifting Technique (time permitting) 

- Cross gearing
- Reduce load; timing w/in pedal stroke
- Shift when decelerating
- Shift before hills


Day 3 : Brakes

Cables/Housing Types 

- Cable sizes, ends
- Housing sizes
- Housing construction, brake vs. deraileur
- Housing failure modes; why shifter is unsafe for brakes
- Determining correct length; short but not too short, compare to old housing

Brakes

Anatomy 

- Road: center-pull, single-pivot, dual-pivot
- Mountain: cantilever, straddle cable; linear-pull (v-brake), noodle
- Release mechanism
- Center adjust screw(s)
- Cartridge pads
- Disc

Pad Alignment 

- Vertical; don't touch tire, or hang off the bottom of the rim
- Rotation; toe shouldn't point up or down
- Flat; surface should be parallel to rim face upon contact
- Toe-in; noise

Pad Maintenance 

- Identify old dried out pads
- Filing off lip
- Metal deposits
- Re-surfacing; put the file on the table

Exercise 

- Disconnect cable, remove pads, put barrel adjusters in middle
- Replace or file pads if necessary
- Re-install pads and position
- Re-connect cable and adjust tension

Braking Technique 

- Use both
- Front does most of the stopping
- Shift weight back for hard braking/hills
- If rear wheel locks under hard braking, ease up on front rather than rear - puts more weight on rear

Wheel Truing

Anatomy 

- Spokes; diameter, butting
- Nipples

Tools 

- Stand; 3 knobs
- Dish tool
- Spoke wrenches; sizes

Types of Adjustment 

- True
- Dish
- Round

Basic Principle 

- Which way to turn nipples
- Triangle geometry
- Even numbers of spokes
- Turn 90d at a time; be aware of spoke twist

Technique 

- Pick a high spot to work on
- Decide where it starts and ends
- Hold on to first spoke and count the rest
- Make adjustments
- Continue around rest of wheel before returning to the same spot

Rule #1: Avoid Cans of Worms

Cans of worms are any parts or problems with the bike that threaten to eat up unexpectedly large portions of time. It's up to your discretion to decide what you can and can't handle, but you might want to avoid the following:

  • Serious rim problems
  • Anything bent totally out of whack
  • Excessively pitted bearing surfaces
  • Cup and cone bottom brackets
  • Suspension systems, pedal bearings
  • Anything that you are not comfortable fixing or servicing
  • Anything for which we lack the proper tools

These problems are outside the scope of a 12-hour class, and trying to fix them is a disservice to the students and to your sanity. If you run across a can of worms, suggest that they either bring it by during open hours or take it to a local bike shop.

Post Class Follow Up

You may consider having your students fill out a survey of the class.

After you finish teaching the class, come back to this wiki page and update it with your experiences. Also, be sure to say some summarizing words on the Yahoo group because you and your co-instructor are probably the only Bike Kitchen regulars that have contact with the class.

Consider recruiting a fellow Bike Kitchen mechanic to teach the next session of the class. Tell them how fun it was!

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